Hume and Hovell at Bird Rock, Point Lillias, 16th December, 1824
By Martin Williams (Section 1) and Terry Scott (Section 2) 11 March 2025
Martin Williams, member of our society and historian, has been moved to write a comprehensive rebuttal of the claims that the 1824 Hume and Hovell journey ended at Werribee. Martin draws on elements of the research undertaken by Mr Terry Scott and provided to the Wyndham Thematic Environmental History project in 2023.
This work categorically proves the historical record that Hume & Hovell’s 1824 journey reached Corio Bay at Point Lillias, just as they did when they were first written in December 1824, and confirmed personally at the location by William Hovell in November 1853.
Section 1
Hume and Hovell at Bird Rock, Point Lillias, 16th December, 1824
By Martin Williams
In December 2024, the Geelong Historical Society suggested that there remained doubt about a fundamental aspect of the journey of Hume and Hovell in 1824.
“There is the matter of the exact route that the party took and, of course, the misidentified endpoint of the journey.”(1).
There is no such doubt. As preliminary information, at Werribee in December 2024 there was not one mention of the Hume and Hovell journey by the Wyndham City Council, the Werribee District Historical Society or the Wyndham Star Weekly. There was no other acknowledgement that the journey had even involved the town, including from elsewhere in Victoria. How could that be?
I have attached as Section 2 a comprehensive rebuttal of the claims that the Hume and Hovell journey ended at Werribee by Mr Terry Scott provided to the Wyndham Thematic Environmental History project in 2023. You will see that Mr Scott has shown that many changes have been made to the journal written by William Hovell and the writings of William Bland in order to come up with an end point of Werribee.
It also means that the proof that William Hovell left during his visit to Geelong in November 1853, including to Government officers and about one hundred of the leading citizens of Geelong, that the journey ended on the north shore of Corio Bay at Point Lillias remains true. Incidentally, William Hovell, in his typical sea captain fashion, left a hand written diary of that event, and it survives.(2).
In historical fact, William Hovell proved with surveying precision, exactly where the party was on December 16, 1824. He wrote in his own hand in his journal that also still exists that he took a bearing of Mt Wollstonecraft (Flinders Peak, You Yangs) of N10W, 8 miles, and that he was two miles from the sea.(3).
That is standard surveying proof that he was standing two miles inland of Point Lillias, naturally meaning Corio Bay, Geelong, when he took that bearing. It is 350 degrees in modern parlance.
You can see the bearing on google earth or any map today.
That standard bearing of N10W, 8 miles, is immutable historical evidence of the fact of his location. Historians are stuck with it. No historian is permitted to alter it just because the person would prefer a different location. It is nowhere near Point Cook or Werribee. It is sufficient all on its own to demolish all of the notions of the Werribee endpoint.
Under section 7 of Mr Scott’s work you will see that William Hovell’s editor, William Bland, in 1831 wrote the following about other bearings taken by Hovell:
“Saturday, December 18.—This morning they commence their return*, … *But previously to so doing, took down the following bearings…” (4).
Then follows a series of bearings. (Shown below)
Bland did not write “afternoon” or “4 pm.” he wrote “morning”. The almost undetectable removal of the word “morning” pointed out by Mr Scott created a major change in location. It wrongly put Hovell some fifteen miles further North from where he genuinely took the bearings. In historically recorded reality, Hume and Hovell were still at Point Lillias on the edge of Corio Bay.
Those bearings too are fixed in location and they must be compatible with Hovell’s “Mt Wollstonecraft N10W, 8 miles”. Merely by transferring the bearings further along the plains and coming up with another set of land features is not good enough. It is not historical evidence. It is a change of accepted primary source evidence.
There is another basic fact. Much has been made of the map used by William Bland in his book Journey of discovery to Port Phillip, New South Wales in 1824 and 1825, by W.H. Hovell and H. Hume.
A mere seven pages after the appearance of the map in his book, Bland apologised for its inadequacies in his Preface (p vii) with the following words.
“the prefixed map is therefore offered, as presenting a mere general outline of the route of Messrs. Hovell and Hume.”(5).
Even then, the “mere general outline of the route” finished at Little River and not at Werribee or Point Cook.
A couple of local phenomena are illustrative. William Hovell made three journeys by steamship between Melbourne Town and Geelong during his visit in 1853. He sailed past Point Lillias and Point Cook six times. Point Cook is a mere bump on the coast. Point Lillias with its Bird Rock was then a highly distinctive cove, just about a Pirate’s Cove. Not once did Hovell stop the boat proclaiming, “I have made a mistake, Point Cook is where our journey ended”.
If the Werribee endpoint had been correct then already there would have been a major summit conference between the City of Greater Geelong, Wyndham City Council, Melbourne City Council and the Victorian State Government. Port Phillip Bay would have had to change its name to Corio Bay, Melbourne to Geelong, Werribee to Lara, and Geelong to find new names for itself and Corio Bay. It did not happen and never will.
There was an attempt to get Wyndham City Council to build a new monument at Point Cook to commemorate the claim that the Hume and Hovell journey ended at that location. It failed. Council advised the proponents of the Werribee notion to get the work reviewed independently by a qualified historian on the 29th June, 2021. It did not happen.
It is a surveying and historical certainty that the Hume and Hovell expedition reached Corio Bay at Point Lillias and Bird Rock on December 16th, 1824. It means that the location is of primary importance to the history of Geelong and Victoria.
* But previously to so doing, took down the following bearings, from the extremity of a low neck of land, extending a considerable distance into the bay, on the left side of the entrance into the creek, viz.
The supposed entrance to the bay, but in fact a low Isthmus, S. by E. distant about fifteen miles. A bold bluff bank, part of the peninsula, forming the southern border of Port Phillip, but now mistaken for an island, distant about ten or twelve miles, S E.—High land, distant between 20 and 30 miles S. 45 W.—Mount M’Intosh named after our late Barrack-master, N. 76 E—and Mount Campbell, after the late Mr. W. Campbell, of Harrington Park, N. 85 E. distant between 30 and 40 miles, Mount Wollstonecraft, named after Mr. E. Wollstonecraft, of Sydney, N. 25 W. seven miles, Mount Berry, named from Mr. Alexander Berry, N W. fifteen miles, and finally the Jullian Range, extending in the form of a crescent, from N E. to N W. distant at its nearest point, about seventeen miles,
Martin Williams
6th February, 2025
References.
2. Papers of W.H. Hovell, Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales, William Hilton Hovell miscellanea, Safe 1/32e, 1945, p.22. https://archival-classic.sl.nsw.gov.au/_transcript/2017/D00007/a1189.html
3. William H. Hovell, Remarks on a journey from Lake George, Lat. 35 deg. 5 min., Long., towards Western Port, 2 October-21 December 1824, State Library of New South Wales, Safe 1/32b, IE3447307, 1824, p. 164. https://trove.nla.gov.au/work/235965239
4. William Bland, Journey of Discovery to Port Phillip, New South Wales; by Messrs. W. H. Hovell, and Hamilton Hume in 1824 and 1825. W. Bland, A. H. Hill, Sydney, New South Wales, 1831. Facsimile First Edition, Adelaide Libraries Board of South Australia, 1965, p. 72.
5. William Bland, Journey of discovery to Port Phillip, New South Wales in 1824 and 1825, by W.H. Hovell and H. Hume, Esquires, Compiled and edited by William Bland, 2nd ed., Sydney, James Tegg, 1837. Preface, vii. https://catalogue.nla.gov.au/Record/2414318
Section 2
Hume and Hovell Expedition Termination at Hovell’s Creek
By Terry Scott
The purpose of this paper is to dispel the idea that the termination point of the H & H expedition was other than at Hovell’s Creek, near present day Lara; as against the lower reaches of the Werribee River. A Werribee River termination has been promoted by Lance Pritchard, Secretary, Werribee District Historical Society.
In following the points below, it might be useful to have a map of the western shores of Port Phillip Bay and inland as far north as Craigieburn. A Melway street directory might suffice.
The main source of information is the Journal written by William Hovell during the trip. It is the only source of primary evidence in text form. The other source of primary information is what is known as Hume’s Map(s) also drawn during the trip, and subsequently reproduced or copied by professional draftsmen between 1825 and 1834. Three copies exist with differences in detail on each of them.
Secondary sources of information used include later writings by Hovell and Hume, the publication Journey of Discovery to Port Phillip, New South Wales by Messrs. W H Hovell and Hamilton Hume in 1824 and 1825, (J of D) edited by William Bland and a study of Hume’s Sketch Maps by Martin Williams (2021). Williams’ paper would be of interest to surveyors and cartographers as well as historians. Bland’s account was produced in 1831 (but not issued) with a second edition in 1837; 12 years after the event. It is often cited as the major reference but is not a primary source of evidence.
Hovell’s Journal was written while on the trip in 1824/25 at which time they believed they had arrived at Western Port (not Port Phillip). Bland’s account was written after it was realized they had reached Port Phillip and corrections were made to the story to justify or explain errors in measurements, and perhaps modify them, and to protect their reputations. It was also redrafted to make it more interesting to readers of the book when published in 1837.
Item
Comment/Discussion
1. Hovell’s Journal 14/12/1824 travel summary.
From a camp site (near Wallan), they ascended a high but single hill (Mt Fraser near Beveridge). From this hill shaped their course SSW for about 8 miles. Continued to another hill (Mt Ridley, north Craigieburn). Travelled 21 miles from the morning’s start to find water in the creek (Moonee Ponds Creek).
The camp site was probably near Somerton Road and Woodland Historic Park. I don’t think there is any question about the route taken on the day based on descriptions and distance travelled.
Note: The bearings would be based on magnetic north.
2. Hovell’s Journal 15/12/1824 travel summary.
Leave camp at 8.30, head SSW. After four miles arrive at a very deep creek which I suppose, lower down, becomes a river. At noon, or about 6 miles from the other creek we came to another. After 20 miles, arrive at a river much larger than the first we crossed this morning. Arrive at 4 o’clock.
The Maribyrnong R. is 4 miles from the camp site and Kororoit Ck is a further 6 miles. In the general direction of movement, at 20 miles, reach the Werribee R.
Seems fairly clear on a map. What would be the basis to reject Hovell’s word?
Note: A question has been raised about the Werribee R. being ‘much larger’ than the Maribyrnong. That depends where you are on the rivers. Hovell’s Journal describes the very deep creek as from top of bank to water’s edge it is not less than 50 or 60 ft. By comparison, the height of Melton Reservoir dam wall at Exford on the Werribee R is over 35m (116ft) and it’s 181m (594ft) across. But there is no other river anyway.
3. Hovell’s Journal 16/12/1824 travel summary.
Cross the river and continue SW by S and at 6 miles thought they saw water or smoke. Took meridian altitude measurement. Bear down nearly south and at 4 o’clock saw water. At
5 o’clock came to the point of land which separates the SE and NW branches. Took several bearings of the harbour (see later). Hovell also describes the harbour on the opposite, but south east side, I think is not less than eight or ten miles and about the same distance to the west side. He adds that higher up the S.E. branch was one immense sheet of water, and continued as far as the eye could reach.
It states had travelled not < 20 miles.
This route and distance accurately describe a trip from the Werribee R. to Point Wilson or its vicinity. Once again, they travelled 20 miles (+) in a day.
The description of two branches in the harbour fits with Corio Bay. Corio Bay runs west-east from Geelong to Indented Head and is approx. 18 miles long with Point Wilson about the mid-point. The immense sheet of water up the SE branch would be the open sea of Port Phillip Bay to its northernmost shores. This description only fits the view from the Point Wilson area and certainly not from other suggested sites such as near the mouth of the Werribee River or at Point Cook.
Note: SW by S is not SSW.
4. Description of the Harbour (Bland).
As well as Hovell’s Journal, Bland’s Account of 17/12/1824 mentions the harbour, viz: the harbour or bay consisted of a great sheet of water, its greatest length extending E. and W. with land which seemed to them an island, to the southward, lying across its mouth, but which, in fact, is a peninsula with a very low isthmus connecting it to the western shore.
This can only be a description of Corio Bay from the north side. It runs east-west and the low isthmus on the western shore would be the low land at the Cheetham salt works at Newcomb/Moolap.
There is no such view from anywhere else on the shoreline of Port Phillip.
5. A Meridiam Altitude Measurement
was taken, according to Hovell’s Journal, on 16/12/1824, probably around noon. It gave their position as latitude 38 deg. 6 min. and longitude 145 deg. 25 min. E.
These co-ordinates would have positioned them near Pakenham in West Gippsland. The longitude measurements for the expedition
were later discredited. The line of latitude 38 deg. 6 min runs offshore from Point Wilson across Port Phillip Bay to Seaford. So that would have put them in Port Phillip Bay.
Various reports, e.g Bland’s account, suggest
the instruments were damaged during the journey and in an unfit state.
Wikipedia (citing Williams) disputes that longitudinal measurements were taken at all and that Hovell admitted this in 1867. This casts doubt about any measurements taken.
6. Travelling 20 miles a day with Cattle.
On the 3 days from 14/12/1824 to 16/12/1824, Hovell’s Journal states they travelled not less than 20 miles each day.
Note: The return trip of about 450 miles took 31 days (incl. two rest days) achieving an average of approx. 16 miles/day. It included some rough terrain along the way.
The suggestion of a Werribee River termination was originally, in part, based on the belief that cattle can’t walk that far in a day. Hume was a skilled bushman. Open flat country with a downhill gradient. What is there to substantiate that Hovell was not telling the truth?
It’s worth noting that Hovell recorded in his Journal on 17/12 1824 that we remained here for the day, to refresh the cattle, which since the time of our first coming into this country say, since last Monday (13/12/1824), have had nearly double the work to do to accomplish the object by the time stipulated. So, the explorers pushed them to the limit. I don’t think this is now an issue.
7. Bearings of landmarks taken by Hovell.
This has been the crux of the claim that the expedition finished at the Werribee River There are different records (by Hovell and Bland) with different dates cited for when bearings were taken. Hovell’s Journal states that on the 16th December At 5 o’clock we came to the point of land which separates the SE from the NW branches. On this point I took several bearings of the harbour (refer bearings book).
Bland’s Account states on 18th December “This morning they commence their return*… at four, having travelled about fifteen miles, they halt on the banks of a large creek, taking its rise in Mt Wollstonecraft (You Yangs), and which they named Dickson’s Creek (Little River)“.
with the asterisk notation
But previously to so doing took down the following bearings from the extremity of a low neck of land, extending a considerable distance in to the bay…”.
To substantiate a Werribee River termination it is claimed that Point Gellibrand (at Williamstown) is the only point on the western shoreline of Port Phillip from where the bearings coincide with the various landmarks. It has been previously claimed that they must have been taken at 4 pm on 18th December to fit the suggested route taken on that day. (In fact, the bearings do not match the landmarks and nor do any other points on the shoreline of the Bay, in spite of the claim to the otherwise – see item 23).
The statements by Hovell and Bland do not agree as regards the dates.
Bland’s account says Hovell took the bearings in the morning before they left on the return trip. So, this requirement for 4 o’clock (or even in the ‘afternoon’) automatically makes the claim false.
Bland’s account lists eight sites and gives bearings for them. Hovell does not list the sites or bearings in his Journal but refers to the bearings book that cannot be found. See item 23 for more detail.
8. Limestone.
Hovell’s Journal, on 16/12/1824, records the presence of soft stone/solid lime.
The Geological Survey of Victoria (1862- 1863) confirms the presence of limestone at the north end of Point Lillias as well as near Hovell’s Creek estuary. Hovells Creek was initially called Kennedys Creek and then Limeburner’s Creek. The estuary of Hovells Creek is called Limeburner’s Bay. Lime kilns were established in the Lara area in the 1850s. I am not aware of limestone deposits near the Werribee River where it is claimed the expedition was on 16 & 17/12/1824.
9. Ridges of stones.
Hovell’s Journal, on 16/12/1824 records: From Mt Wollstonecraft (Flinders Peak, You Yangs) there are two or three ridges of stones, which continue nearly to the water side, distance of about six or seven miles.
I understand that elongated stony rises can be easily seen from the Princes Highway in the vicinity of Avalon Airport and in the neighbouring paddocks on the northern side of the Freeway to Geelong. These correspond to those described by Hovell. There are no stony rises in Werribee South; certainly not running from a mount to the sea.
10. Initials in a tree.
Hovell’s Journal, on 16th December, mentions that Hume and Hovell carved their initials in a tree located about two miles from the waterside. This event is recorded in Bland’s Journey of Discovery on 17th December and mentions that it “was some distance from the left bank of the creek, about two miles from the beach”.
If this was the Werribee River it is unlikely it would be described as a creek. Two miles upstream from the coast it is a wide (prob. 50m) estuarine section of the river.
11. Freshwater at termination point.
The expedition terminated on 17th December 1824. Hovell’s Journal records on the 17th that “we left this place and kept up Kennedy’s Creek (Hovells Creek) till we came to fresh water” and “there was good grass round the ponds”.
On the night before, 16th December, the Bland’s Journey of Discovery records that “They stopped for the night at seven o’clock, in a small wood about a mile from the beach, but where there was no fresh water; having travelled today upwards of twenty miles”. It continues on the 17th with “they proceed this morning from the beach, in a direction about NNW. three or four miles, in quest of water, when they arrive on the banks of a creek or at present a chain of ponds commencing at Mt Wollstonecraft to find an abundance, both of good water and grass”.
Fast forward to the return trip and Hovell’s Journal on 19th December and the statement that “the water of the Arndell (Werribee R) is fresh as far as we have been down, which perhaps will have been within the distance of five or six miles from the Bay”.
Five or six miles upstream from the river mouth takes you into the present Werribee township. That is interesting as it shows they had never been down to the estuarine section of the Werribee River on the 16th/17th December as would have had to occur if it had been a Werribee River termination (whereas the journals state they would have had to move upstream to find fresh water).
I doubt if the estuarine lower reaches of the Werribee River could ever be described as a chain of ponds.
12. Mount Wollstonecraft and its bearing (Flinders Peak, You Yangs). Mount Wollstonecraft is mentioned several times in Hovell’s Journal and Bland’s Journey of Discovery. It is a dominant feature on the horizon from any vantage point on the plains. The Journey of Discovery on 18th December includes it as one of the sites of which bearings were taken and describes it thus; “Mount Wollstonecraft, named after Mr. E. Wollstonecraft, of Sydney, N 25W. seven miles”.
That direction and distance cited, if from Point Gellibrand, lands you in Maribyrnong although a rocky outcrop at Sunshine tip was earlier suggested. Other points subsequently suggested by Mr Pritchard as Mt Wollstonecraft are Mt Mount Cottrell, Taylors Hill and more recently Avondale Heights (the last no doubt a land developer’s name and where the land overlooks the Maribyrnong River to the south and east). It doesn’t seem to be a noticeable high point when viewed from the south. It’s beyond imagination for Mount Wollstonecraft to be confused with any of these alternatives. However, the bearing and distance of Mount Wollstonecraft from Point Wilson is peculiar as it is more like N 35W, ten miles. Which further questions the accuracy of measurements taken during the expedition.
13. Mount Wollstonecraft and its description.
Hovell’s Journal, on 16 December, describes Mt Wollstonecraft: “It is a very conspicuous mountain, or rather it consists of a number of peaked hills adjoining each other, particularly when it bears N 50 deg. W. distance about five miles.“
Description perfect. Mt Wollstonecraft is Flinders Peak. Distance about five miles; places the observer on the route from the Arndell (Werribee) River to Point Wilson taken on 16 December. Position perfect.
In the Werribee River termination scenario what Hovell calls Mt Wollstonecraft has been variously named Mt Cottrell, Taylors Hill, etc (item 12 above). These are single peaks and nothing like the peaked hills observed by Hovell.
14. Point Henry (near Geelong) described.
In the Sydney Herald 4th July 1831 (source Trove) there is an extract from Hume’s Journal of the 16th December 1824 which states “We travelled until dark, and finding no fresh water, stopped for the night in a small wood on the northern bank, about half a mile from the beach, opposite to a point, or headland, bearing S by W, distant 4 or 5 miles, and which stretched a considerable distance into the harbour from the opposite side”.
Note: It is interesting that Trove quotes Hume’s Journal. Bland had stated in J of D that he referred to the journals of the two travellers yet elsewhere that he used Hovell’s Journal as the basis for his publication as information provided by Hume was meagre and/or of little value. Hume apparently did publish a more comprehensive record, “A Brief Statement of Facts etc.” in 1855, after his spat with Hovell.
Point Henry is located on the north side of the Bellarine Peninsula (south side of Corio Bay) at Moolap. It was the site of the Alcoa aluminium smelter until 2014.
This ‘opposite side’ and ‘considerable distance into the harbour’ fit the description of Point Henry. No other sites in Port Phillip or Corio Bays match this description. ‘Opposite to a point’ suggests they had moved nearer Point Lillias to the west of Point Wilson. The distance is fine.
Hume could not have manufactured this description and why would he?
How can Hume’s story be refuted? It can’t.
15. Bird Rock (off shore from Point Lillias).
William Hovell visited Geelong in December 1853 and made a speech at the reception held in his honour. His speech began with
About this time, twenty-nine years back my brother traveller, Mr. Hamilton Hume, and myself were talking over what had passed during the journey, the present prospects and future. The spot on which that conversation took place was at or near the point opposite Bird Rock.
The speech later recounts “We then went in search of water and after an hour’s walk in nearly a north- north-west direction we met with it at Kennedy’s Creek, now called Limeburner’s Creek” and then “the day we spent here was one of the happiest in our lives for we had done that which a published record had proclaimed to be impossible.“
Bird Rock is some 500 metres off shore from Point Lillias which is just on the east of Hovell’s Creek. It can be seen from land. Obviously not named in 1824 but presumably a local name after settlement and Hovell must have picked up the name. If they camped in the vicinity, they would have been about 3-4 miles from fresh water to the NNW; Hovells Creek.
An article in the Geelong Advertiser and Intelligencer of 30 November 1853 states “Hovell has, in company with Mr. Skene, Government Surveyor, and Mr. Bonsey, Police Magistrate, visited the turning point of the journey, and ascertained beyond the shadow of a doubt, that the eastern bank of the Duck Ponds, near the Bird Rock, is the exact locality where he met the natives who informed him that the Bay was named Geelong, and the mountain behind Wooloomanata – now corrupted into Villamanata” (see next item).
Is there any reason to doubt Hovell’s words?
16. Geelong Newspaper.
An article in the Geelong Advertiser and Intelligencer of 30 November 1853 refers to Bland’s account and states “In perusing the following extract, our readers will bear in mind that the “Arndell” is the Werribee; “Mount Woolstonecraft” is Station Peak; “Kennedy’s Creek” is Duck Ponds; “Mount Berry” is the highest of the Anikies (sic); and the Julion Range is Mount Macedon and the neighbouring hills. The other mountains mentioned are on the eastern shore of Port Phillip”.
This is referring to the landmarks and bearings recorded by Bland. Interesting confirmation of place names.
The paper’s statement support a Hovells Creek termination.
Note: It is interesting that the paper also states “they crossed the Werribee named by them the Arndell, a name which has long been erroneously applied to the Salt Water River near Melbourne”.
17. Aboriginal language – Geelong, Corio and Woolloomanata.
Hovell’s Journal and the Bland’s Journey of Discovery mention aboriginal terminology for Geelong, Corio and Mount Wollstonecraft (Flinders Peak) et al which had been picked up by Hume and Hovell in discussion with the aborigines on 17th December. The Points of Interest Australia web site reports that “William Hovell had even noted that the aborigines named the area Corayo and the bay Jillong” (now it’s reversed with the area being Geelong and the Bay being Corio).
Different aborigine clans occupied their own territory east and west of the Werribee River. Aboriginal people whose lands were on the east side of the Werribee R (Woi wurrung and Bun wurrung) certainly would not mention and maybe not even be familiar with the names of natural features far away in the territory of the clan west of the river (Wada wurrung). Surely, they would have named features in their own territory.
Note: Spelling of aboriginal tribe names can vary.
18. Fold Out Map in Bland’s Journal of Discovery.
This map has been claimed to show that a termination point marked on an unnamed river is on the Werribee River.
It is a small-scale map covering over 800km east to west. It shows a river entering the Bay at about the location of the Little River and not far from Point Wilson; not at the site of entry of the Werribee River. There is no river shown where the Werribee River enters Port Phillip Bay. It’s a schematic. Using it as a precision map is ill-founded.
In Williams’ paper it is stated: “In addition to the 1837 edition of his book, Bland produced a purported map of the journey showing a destination of Port Phillip (note 36). It appears to be hurriedly hand drawn and leaves off the concluding point of the journey at Kennedy’s Creek (Lara) despite the detailed description provided in the text. The error was corrected in the next edition of Bland’s book; all of the missing section was inserted (note 37)”.
19. Hovells Journal Travel Summary 18/12/1824. The trip home – first day. Hovell’s Journal of states “we began to retrace our steps, but kept nearer the water than when we had come. By so doing we avoided the stones which we before passed through, and about the distance of fifteen miles we stopped for the night beside Dickson’s Creek (Little River). The creek comes from Mount Wollstonecraft”.
For the same day, Bland’s Journey of Discovery states “This morning they commence their return, keeping between two and three miles to the southward and eastward of their outward route; at four, having travelled fifteen miles, they halt on the banks of a large creek”.
Hovells Creek comes from the west side of the Mount Wollstonecraft (Flinders Peak/You Yangs) and Dickson’s Creek from the east side. Seems clear enough.
But the Werribee River termination scenario has the outward trip of the expedition travelling along the coast between the River and Point Gellibrand. The return trip is stated as being two to three miles to the southward, and seeing they supposedly came down along the coast this would have placed them well into Port Phillip Bay; so not feasible.
They also selected their route to avoid stones. But the Werribee River delta is free of stones which is not the case around Avalon. Hovell’s and Bland’s descriptions are compatible with the departure route from Hovells Creek but not so from the lower Werribee River area.
I would think there is no reason to question the truth of the journal entries.
20. Hovells Journal Travel Summary 19/12/1824. The trip home – second day. Hovell’s Journal simply states “we continued our course about N.25deg. E. till we arrived at the banks of the Arndell which was some distance lower down than where we crossed it before. Having recrossed it we kept a little up till we came to good feed for our cattle” and also “the water of the Arndell (Werribee R) is fresh as far as we have been down, which perhaps will have been within the distance of five or six miles from the Bay”.
Five or six miles upstream from the Werribee River mouth takes you into the present Werribee township. That is interesting as it shows they had never been down to the estuarine section of the Werribee River as would have had to occur for a Werribee River termination (where it’s suggested on 17th December they moved upstream to find fresh water).
21. Hovells Journal Travel Summary 20/12/1824. The trip home – third day. Hovell’s Journal states Between 7 or 8 o’clock we left the Arndell ….and… Myself and Mr. Hume left the men to continue their course, while we rode lower down to get another sight of the water (Port Phillip), but we found the distance too great, and that it would keep us too long from the party. No direction is given by Hovell but Bland indicates north east.
They left the camp site on the Arndell/Werribee and stop for the night at Cavennes Creek (Moonee Ponds Ck) where they were on the night of the14th December.
But the Werribee River termination scenario on this day has them travelling from a point on the Maribyrnong River 4 or 5 miles upstream from the mouth and heading north. Looking for a sight of the ‘water’ would have had them heading back the way they had come.
22. Instruments. Instruments taken on the expedition were one false horizon, one sextant, three pocket compasses and one perambulator/odometer (which collapsed on 14/12/1824). These were apparently lent by the Colonial Surveyor, Mr. James Meehan.
There are various references to the issues related to the instruments such as in Bland’s account where he speaks of the imperfection of their instruments injured as they were in the journey as well as from the hurried manner in which they were unavoidably taken. What this means is that the accuracy of measurements recorded is questionable.
23. The Bearings taken of eight landmarks. These have also been mentioned in item 7.
The argument for a Werribee River termination is that these bearings must have been taken from Point Gellibrand as that is the only site from which the bearings match the landmarks identified by Hovell. The landmarks are described as:
- An isthmus S. by E. distant about 15 miles (Note: not SE)
- A bold bluff distant about 10 to 12 miles S E
- High land between 20 to 30 miles, S. 25 W.
- Mt McIntosh N. 76 E (assume 30 to 40 miles), and
- Mt Campbell N.85 E. 30 to 40 miles
- Mt Wollstonecraft N.25 W. 7 miles
- Mt Berry N W. 15 miles
- Jullian Range crescent N E. to N W. 17+ miles away.
There is no site on the shoreline of Port Phillip where the bearings match the land marks; in spite of what Mr Pritchard says. His diagrammatic plans are quite inaccurate. On the following two pages are diagrams that show the bearings when taken from Point Gellibrand and Point Wilson. Neither are correct with, for example, an obvious impossible error for point 1. This and other errors may have been due to incorrect transcription of information from Hovell’s bearing book to Bland’s J of D or reasons to do with instruments or haste. Who knows?
The conclusion is that it is invalid to use the bearings as sound argument to determine the termination point of the expedition
Note: Williams’ paper on Hume’s Sketch maps elaborates on this topic and has some different views on where the bearings were taken and which landmarks are described.
Two charts slapped together some time ago, showing the bearings are shown below. They are a bit rough regarding text but the bearings are accurate. They are confirmation of the comments in the table (item 23) that no point on the shoreline matches the bearings and landmarks as recorded in Bland’s Journey of Discovery.
quod erat demonstrandum
Terry Scott
19 March 2023
Bearings and Landmarks from Point Gellibrand
Bearings and Landmarks from Point Wilson.
Bio: Martin Williams had a career in research science at the University of Melbourne, the Australian Road Research Board, RMIT University Technisearch Ltd, and finally as a Deputy Chief, CSIRO, Geelong. He has had extensive experience as an expert witness in litigation and government inquiries. On retirement he switched to a life-time interest in colonial history and is now published in the international refereed literature.
