Flinders in the Investigator.
This article on Matthew Flinders was the second in a series called ‘The Story of Geelong’ and originally published in the first volume of the Geelong Historical Society’s magazine ‘Investigator’. It provides some context for and a brief snapshot and chronology of Matthew Flinders’ activities in Port Phillip during 1802. Of particular interest are his observations on the Bellarine Peninsula and the You Yangs.
The newly discovered Bay did not have to wait long for its next visitors. About six weeks later Lieutenant Matthew Flinders in the Investigator entered the bay, believing he had made a discovery. He set out from England in July, 1801, “to the coast of New Holland for the purpose of making a complete examination and survey of the said coast.“ he reached Cape Leeuwin in December and proceeded to examine the southern coast of the continent.
At first Flinders believed that he arrived at “the Western Port of Mr Bass“, but the topography of the area made him change his mind. He thought that there was a little hope of finding a passage into the bay but on April 26, 1802, he entered through the Rip and proceeded along the southern shore of the bay where he ran aground, but got the ship off again without a great deal of trouble. He anchored, took the cutter further up the bay and climbed what he called Bluff Mount (Murray’s Arthur’s Seat).
In his log Flinders wrote: “the view from the mouth presented a large expanse of water, the boundary to which was scarcely visible, and for 60° to the northward could not be at a less distance than 15 miles, and may probably be twice as much; and round the furthest visible point on the western shore the water extended to the south westward until lost behind land. No island, the middle of dry shoal accepted, or other object appeared in the port to attract attention; but it seemed to be an immense basin of water, most of which may probably be shoal“.
The northern extremity of the western shore he named Indented Head from its appearance, and he suspected that the western branch of the port might have a connection with the sea for “it was almost incredible that such a vast piece of water should not have a larger outlet than that through which we had come.“
On April 29 Flinders took a boat and provisions for three days and set off to explore the port. He first proceeded past Arthur’s Seat and then rode across the bay to Indented Head where he spent the night. In the morning he continued westward along the shore until he reached to Sandy point “once the shore trends nearly southwest; and there being no appearance of an opening to the sea this way“ he crossed the bay to the opposite shore “as well to ascertain its depth as with the intention of ascending the hills lying behind the northern shore.“ Flinders mentions that two of the peaks had been observed at a distance of 37 miles on April 25 i.e. before he entered the port.
On arriving on the other shore, he describes it as being low and marshy, complaining that he had difficulty in finding a spot to pitch his tent. The following morning he set off for “the highest part of the back hills called Station Peak.“ Crossed a plain “almost destitute of wood“ and reached the top of the peak at 10 o’clock. From here Flinders made several observations and calculations, reckoning that the port was 30 miles from north to south and 36 miles from east to west. Writing of what we now know as Corio Bay he thought that “there was no communication with the sea on that side, nor did the western arm appear to be navigable beyond 7 miles above where I had crossed it.“
From the point of view of this history it is interesting to note that Flinders was the first European to see the general area where Geelong later was established.
He left the ship’s name on a scroll of paper in a pile of stones on the top of Station Peak (now renamed Flinders Peak in his honour), and returned to his camping place “much fatigued, having walked more than 20 miles without finding a drop of water.”
In the evening Flinders returned to Indented Head. The following morning he moved on to “what Mr Murray called a Swan Harbour, but which I have taken the liberty of converting into Swan Ponds.“
In summing up his impressions of Port Phillip he says that it “is capable of receiving and sheltering a large fleet of ships than ever when to sea” but that its narrow entrance, it shoals and its tides made a tricky place to navigate. Of the country he said that It had “a pleasing and in many parts a fertile appearance.“ He forecast that it was “capable of supporting much cattle, though better calculated for sheep,” an interesting prediction when we think of the invasion of squatters 30 odd years later.
On May 3, 1802, Flinders left the port and continued on to Sydney where in his reports to Governor King he added his praises of Port Phillip to those of Lieutenant Murray. This, as will be seen later, hastened the formation of a colony in Port Phillip.
Note: The map reproduced here is based on Flinders’ map of Port Phillip which he drew from his own observations and completed from the map made by Mr Charles Grimes, surveyor-general of New South Wales.
